This is one amazing story of an incredible journey this family took, and damn can they cook! By Joshua Deats, November 14 2016
We could talk tacos all day long, but the real magic I found is in the history of this family, and where they came from. So often you eat food, or try out a new place, and never realize the spectacular journey that it took to get onto your plate and into your mouth. In fact, these tacos have been in the making for over forty years. Starting in 1972 El Don ( the skeleton with the sombrero ) began his trek and manifest destiny to a new land for a better life for his family. You had two options, work in the field, or work in the kitchen. With only two narrow paths to go, the world got a little tastier from the flavors El Don brought with him. After two years of hard honest work the rest of the family was sent for, and the foundation for the recipe for success was set. The country was foreign and five kids needed to be clothed, fed, and prepared for the real world. A language that is not understood, and a job that is unforgiving and harsh by many standards proved not to be an obstacle, but a platform that provided the ingredients for success. The passion came not from food, nor some recipe, but from the desire to have a family have an opportunity. The father toiled day and night to provide a better life, all the while the children fed off of his undying work ethic, which translated into a unity of familia. To stay up to date follow them on: Pinches Tacos
Starting out as a barista, or coffee server, back in the 1980’s, El Darkness got his start under his uncle at a Los Angeles landmark known as Cha-Cha-Cha.off N Virgil in East L.A. which unfortunately closed just recently it did so with it’s head held high still holding 4-5 star reviews on all major critic platforms. After 30 years a developer bought out the whole block and it was time to move on, even though the emotional connection tried to convince them otherwise. El Don moved his way through the ranks and landed at an iconic eatery known as The Ivy, which has been a landmark since 1983. Situated off N Robertson in West Hollywood this is where the rest of the boys cut their teeth on hard work, and great food. It is amazing to be able to admit that someone can not read or write fully but still have it come across as honorable. El Don crossed so many boundaries, passed a driving test, and moved his way into a premier eatery that was frequented by the stars and lights of Hollywood, without any of the skill set that everyone else possessed. He just willed it to be. This is where the boys honed their craft into what you have on your plate today.
It was a different style of learning and teaching from the patriarch of the clan. There were no recipes, or mathematical formula that was followed. The old man threw ingredients into a bowl, and cha cha cha, it was tasted. Then adjusted from there. Javi learned at a young age that every chef will have their own personal touch, and it was better to taste your way through than stick to a rigid structure. This made sense as quoted “That your avocados will never be the same, and your tomatoes will have a different ripeness, and your meat will sometimes be fattier, it is within this individual audible wherein lies the difference. And it makes sense, in both flavor, and reception. Every chef has their own touch, we do not want to make a cookie cutter of everything else. We built this and we wanted it to be different.” Continuing on Mr. Anaya stated that “We opened these restaurants to make people happy, first and foremost. you can see that in the decor, and the design, all the way to the food. As you are away from your house, and here eating, it is time to forget everything and just enjoy the food and atmosphere, that is the success to longevity.” I agree with his insight, but with food this unforgettable, you would be hard pressed to get anything else wrong. To start to put this in perspective, they are going on their 7th store, and serve over 100,000 tacos a year. Just to get a scope of things, this is not your mom and pops taco shop on the corner anymore, far from it. The decor is hand painted by local artists that are resourced individually by the owners. There is no ‘corporate arts and resource department’. This is the vibe and pulse created from the surroundings by chefs and owners that are so in touch with the community, that it is a direct reflection of where you are, in the most colorful and festive way possible. I remember speaking with Javi when their 6th location was just opening and he told me that the booths were going to be used van seats, re-upholstered, surrounded by some of the most amazing art you have seen. I have to say I dismissed it at first, only six months later to be sitting in those exact junker car seats mesmerized by the intricate detail that went into them. The headrests had a happy, yet dead skeleton line dance going on, while the seats were so comfortable I had wished I did not have to get up and use the restroom to help my body forget the margarita I just had. Even the bathroom had custom touches and tile, featuring their culture, fun, and ambiance. Day of the Dead wall tile in the bathroom? It was just too much, but made me late to getting back to my table as the surroundings just invoked a need to explore and find all of the hidden little gems that were incorporated into the motif.
And it makes sense, in both flavor, and reception. Every chef has their own touch, we do not want to make a cookie cutter of everything else. We built this and we wanted it to be different.” Continuing on Mr. Aryaa stated that “We opened these restaurants to make people happy, first and foremost. you can see that in the decor, and the design, all the way to the food. As you are away from your house, and here eating, it is time to forget everything and just enjoy the food and atmosphere, that is the success to longevity.” I agree with his insight, but with food this unforgettable, you would be hard pressed to get anything else wrong. To start to put this in perspective, they are going on their 7th store, and serve over 100,000 tacos a year. Just to get a scope of things, this is not your mom and pops taco shop on the corner anymore, far from it. The decor is hand painted by local artists that are resourced individually by the owners. There is no ‘corporate arts and resource department’. This is the vibe and pulse created from the surroundings by chefs and owners that are so in touch with the community, that it is a direct reflection of where you are, in the most colorful and festive way possible. I remember speaking with Javi when their 6th location was just opening and he told me that the booths were going to be used van seats, re-upholstered, surrounded by some of the most amazing art you have seen. I have to say I dismissed it at first, only six months later to be sitting in those exact junker car seats mesmerized by the intricate detail that went into them. The headrests had a happy, yet dead skeleton line dance going on, while the seats were so comfortable I had wished I did not have to get up and use the restroom to help my body forget the margarita I just had. Even the bathroom had custom touches and tile, featuring their culture, fun, and ambiance. Day of the Dead wall tile in the bathroom? It was just too much, but made me late to getting back to my table as the surroundings just invoked a need to explore and find all of the hidden little gems that were incorporated into the motif.
Giant stop light signs, custom graffiti, a chain link fence, and a kitchen that was crafted to look like a food truck was just the beginning. The alcohol was store away in a classy yet function chicken coop looking area behind the bar while the patrons drank tequila shots and watched the latest sporting event. It truly was like old world meets new, and this flavor in design translated directly onto the food that was served. Javi went on to explain that they tried above and beyond anything else that their food remain authentic, but in-between what you would find at a dollar taco shop that remained too authentic to it’s demise, grease and all, but for common person who did not want to spend $200 on a once a year gourmet extravaganza. It was bridging these two extreme ends of the field and combining them into one delicious plate where you could taste the rustic hard work of the field workers, but for the price of your local street corner. This formula has currently been serving over half a million people a year while still staying true to their roots. U.C.L.A. is to be home to the latest opening and offering from these brothers which will stay true to form, we had to press and ask what would be the first thing that El Don would order when he sits down at his son’s latest creations. Without hesitation the overwhelming response was “He would go back there and show us something new. He would pound out the chicken, throw in his spices, onions, cilantro, and just simplicity. I think that is when it cliqued, it was in the simplicity of their food that was so genuine. They were not trying to reinvent the wheel, with hundreds of new sauces and slaws. They stuck to the basic ingredients that were the alpha of these dishes yet just improved upon them.
Food aside, the giving back to their employees and community is to be noteworthy. as we sat for our interview out of nowhere the owner received a phone call from one of his hostesses whom had met a series of unfortunate events, where we had to stop for a second while we listened into his response. It was one of love, and support, that she was to take care of her life and family for the day, and welcome and open arms were waiting as soon as she got back. I am glad she did not have a flat tire as I am sure we would all be finishing this en-route to the side of a highway somewhere. It is this loving culture that we witnessed firsthand that really is their recipe for success, they treat not only their employees as family, but each and every person who walks through their doors. Specifically in Vegas Pinches Tacos works with Sole Angels, in an area that has the nations second highest rate of homeless teens, to put shoes on the feet of those in need. “There are these kids in need, and we do this every year, and for our first anniversary at this location we are aiming to raise 300 shoes for those in need. Don’t bring gifts, bring shoes.” Pinches has a unique approach where they still try and learn every customers name, and they do not take out ad’s or billboards.
They would rather spend that money on their patrons. “Why spend $200 on an ad, when I can buy 20 shots on a busy Friday night and have everyone enjoy their experience, that is money well spent to us.”k Even though they have been approached by networks, and television shows to cash in on their loyal fanbase, it has all boiled down to their terms, and that is they are in the taco business, not the fame business. In the end, the sense of family, passion, and work ethic is ingrained to the core much like avocado is to guacamole, this is what is going to be passed down to the next generations, and hopefully franchises, but that has to be with people who are restaurant people and invested in the concept and culture. Pinches does not want to be out for just a buck, and their humble beginnings forgotten. “When you care too much about money you half ass stuff, and your culture completely changes.” Their policy is if you do not like it, here is your money back, and a shot of tequila on us. El Don taught us this in the end, his most valuable lesson “None ever became poor from being given.” I have never met anyone who has given who was poor. We do not want anything in return, just to be given.
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